Defunct’ is a luxury womenswear collection for AW21, balancing the tensions between understatement and exaggeration. Following the idea of the potential held within the conventional has formed the basis of my approach to research and design, exploring a balance between humour and beauty within my work. I am drawn to unusual contrasts through the distribution of texture, cut and colour in clothing to create a modern interpretation of familiar uniform dress codes. With a hyper focus on the mundane, my initial inspiration came from images of my Fathers office from 1987, when he worked for the Crown Prosecution Service in London. These images showing rows of beige filing cabinets, manila card folders and bulky grey computer monitors influence an aesthetic built around the out-of-date computing equipment from around this era. With focus on the muted and uneasy tones of off white, beige, brown and grey contrasting with bold blocks of primary colour found in defunct computer technology. Grounded in existing familiar uniform codes, my collection uses uniformity as a backdrop to create a collection outwardly understated and generic. Combining the use of sheer fabrics, latex, and wool suiting to create an uneasy juxtaposition in texture, as well as balancing between the connotations associated with the garments and their material. Cutting away at block shapes and layering them, introducing exposed underwear, creates a story that is outwardly bold and daring from a world that is banal and mundane.
A fashion design with business studies graduate specialising in womenswear.